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Ecuador is almost certainly one of the coffee growing countries to have most radically changed preconceptions of coffee quality over the last decade. This has been driven by a combination of varied and often exceptional terroir, unique Arabica cultivars and forward thinking, quality minded producers.

Finca La Carolina like many farms in the province of Pichincha, is medium altitude but a unique microclimate helps slow the fruit development during ripening. Guillermo Lomas runs La Carolina and grows several cultivars, all for quality rather than volume. He has around half of his ten hectare farm growing coffee and this year we have bought two lots a Typica Mejorada and a Sidra from him.

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Silky bodied and soft, this Typica Mejorada carries a caramel sweetness that stays present from hot to cool. Over it, fresh hedgerow florals, ripe stone fruit and orange citrus form the main flavours, held up by a juicy citrus acidity, bright without bite, and a silky, refined mouthfeel. As the coffee cools, look for green apple, pomelo and subtle red berry. What stands out is how much is going on in the coffee, yet it comes across with real poise and refinement.

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This Typica Mejorada lot is washed process. The cherries are picked ripe, floated and sorted to take out anything underripe or damaged, then depulped on the farm. From there the coffee is dry fermented, left in tanks to break down the mucilage without water, before being washed clean through the channels and graded.

The drying is where Guillermo’s recent work shows: slow drying on raised beds, the parchment turned regularly so it dries evenly, the beds kept covered from the rain. This care over the washed process gives a clean cup that holds its florals and citrus, and the light roast is keeps them a primary feature of the flavour profile


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